100 Years Ago… – Accounts of 1924: Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II’s return journey to Qadian after the historic Europe tour

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Hazrat Sheikh Yaqub Ali Irfanira (1875-1957)
Fazl Mosque 1

Preparations for the return journey to Qadian

(Al Fazl, 29 November 1924)

As had been planned, the day finally arrived for Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] to depart from London and return to Qadian with his travel companions. 24 October 1924 was an exceptionally busy day for him. It involved packing for the journey, meeting visitors, preparing for the Friday sermon scheduled to be delivered at the mosque in Putney, and reaching Waterloo Station by 4:30 pm to embark on the return journey.

On the night of 23 October, Huzoor[ra] stayed up until 2 am, guiding a truth-seeker. This young man, who has done BC before travelling to England, possesses deep affection for the Khalifa but, owing to his philosophical inclinations, harbours numerous doubts. He sought clarity on various topics, including the existence of God, the nature of the soul, and the realities of heaven and hell. Huzoor[ra] had previously allotted time for this young man and had promised to meet him again before leaving. On the evening of 23 October, along with Mrs Pearl, the young man visited Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra]. When it was time for him to leave, Huzoor[ra] remarked, “Stay for a while longer. I will give you some time now and more in the morning.” Consequently, the young man stayed. Despite having answered Mrs Pearl and her friends’ questions until around 10 pm, Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] continued his discussion with Mr Ghayasuddin, i.e., the young man, until nearly 2 am.

The next morning, Huzoor[ra] engaged in packing for the journey. He personally packed his belongings, despite the affectionate insistence of Malik Janjua Sahib, who considered it a privilege and honour to assist him. Huzoor[ra], however, continued to pack on his own and finished around 1 pm.

During this time, many individuals had gathered to meet Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra]. These were people who could not visit the train station due to their commitments or who felt they would have better opportunities to meet him at the residence. May Allah reward them in accordance with their sincerity. Amin.

In the midst of all these activities, Huzoor[ra] had lunch, and directed his companions to proceed to the mosque in Putney. We travelled there via the underground railway, while Huzoor[ra] arrived by car. At the new mosque, he led the first Friday prayer.

First Friday prayer at Fazl Mosque, London

On 24 October 1924, Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] led the first Friday prayer at the very mosque whose foundation had been laid just a few days earlier, on 19 October. The atmosphere at the time was deeply emotional. Only the small walls of the prayer niche (mihrab) had been erected, and the ground was covered with simple flooring. Without the flooring, it would have resembled the early state of Masjid al-Nabawi, where prostrations left foreheads smeared with mud.

The names of those who participated in this first Friday prayer at the blessed mosque, as far as I can recall, are as follows:

Mian Sharif Ahmad Sahib[ra], Hafiz Roshan Ali Sahib[ra], Sheikh Abdul Rahman Sahib, Khan Zulfiqar Ali Khan Sahib[ra], Chaudhry Fateh Muhammad Sahib[ra], Abdur Rahim Nayyar Sahib[ra], Maulana Dard Sahib[ra] (Abdul Rahim MA), Bhai Abdul Rahman Sahib[ra], Brother Azizuddin Sahib, Brother Nawabuddin Sahib, Brother Misbahuddin Sahib, Brother Zafar Haq Sahib, Dr Muhammad Ismail Sahib[ra], and Dr Hashmatullah Sahib[ra]. Additionally, three Muslim women, two English individuals, and a Turkish friend were also present. The English ladies included Jannat Garden (Ahmadi poetess) and her daughter, while the Turkish attendee was Latifi Bey’s sister, a notable figure and sibling of a prominent Turkish minister. Other attendees included Maulvi Muhammad Din Sahib[ra] (American missionary), Hakim Fazlur Rahman Sahib, another missionary in America, Mr Martin (African student), Malik Janjua Sahib, and Mr Khalid Abdul Rahim Sahib. (If anyone’s name has been left, they may inform us to ensure their inclusion.)

[… In his Friday sermon, Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] mentioned the example of prophets in light of the Holy Quran, highlighting their initial trials and hardships, as well as the adverse circumstances they faced. He then emphasised how Allah the Almighty eventually granted them success and progress. Huzoor[ra] also urged reflection on the early struggles of the Promised Messiah’sas mission. He reminded the congregation of the fierce opposition from nations and governments that sought to destroy the seed planted by the Promised Messiahas. Despite this, the seed grew and flourished. He called upon everyone to labour diligently and vigilantly to nurture the sapling that has sprouted from the seed sown by the Promised Messiahas, ensuring it grows into a magnificent tree…]

Scene at Waterloo Station

Shortly before the train’s departure, we arrived at Waterloo Station, where a large crowd of European men and women had gathered to bid farewell. Among them were not only English individuals but also people from India and Africa. Journalists and photographers were also present. These friends, who had been meeting Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] for nearly a week, were naturally moved by his departure. After warm and heartfelt handshakes, each one bade him farewell, and photographers captured the moment.

Since we were already running late, Huzoor[ra] continued shaking hands even after the train whistle had sounded. Due to the extraordinary crowd, the train’s departure was delayed by two to three minutes. Finally, Huzoor[ra] was informed of the whistle, and he boarded the train. As the train began to move, the station resounded with cries of “Goodbye,” and we watched as our friends waved their hands and handkerchiefs until they were out of sight.

Eventually, the train’s swift pace began to carry us away from London toward Southampton, where we were to board a ship and cross the sea to disembark on the shores of France.

Arrival at Southampton

After sunset, we arrived at Southampton. Although this route to France is longer than travelling via Dover, it is preferred due to the more comfortable sea journey. The waters near Dover are narrow, requiring crossing in smaller boats, which leads to significant turbulence. Hence, the aforementioned route was chosen.

From the station, we made our way to the port’s passenger lounge, which was spacious and accommodating. There, we offered the Maghrib and Isha prayers. Huzoor[ra], as was his habit, spent time walking.

The passport officer, a retired military officer, was exceptionally polite and accommodating. He extended every possible convenience to us. At 8 pm, we boarded the ship, St. Briac, which was scheduled to depart at midnight. This ship, newly built in 1924, had a courteous and refined crew. It was well-equipped with adequate bedding, blankets, and impeccably clean washroom facilities.

While asleep, we crossed a portion of the sea. For a short while, the ship encountered stormy conditions, but, by the grace of God, the journey proceeded peacefully. At 8 am, we disembarked at Le Havre, a French coastal port.

An amusing incident

Upon arriving at the Customs House, we were issued tickets to disembark from the ship onto the shore. After some inspection, our luggage was cleared. However, an interesting incident occurred concerning an air rifle carried by Sheikh Abdul Rahman, a rifle-like air gun belonging to Huzoor[ra]. The customs officer became quite anxious upon seeing it, attracting a small group of staff around him. He began asking a series of concerned questions: Where are you going? Do you have a passport? His serious demeanour left us perplexed.

Finally, Sahibzada Mirza Sharif Ahmad[ra] opened the air rifle to show its mechanism and explained that it was merely an air gun. The officer, [realising his mistake], sheepishly remarked, “Oh, it’s just a toy!” His reaction provided a moment of humour for everyone present.

After clearing customs, we boarded a tram and proceeded to the railway station. However, we were compelled to form a somewhat unfavourable opinion regarding the French port and railway facilities. The streets were damaged and poorly maintained, the travel arrangements were far inferior to London’s, and even the police officers appeared short-statured and unimpressive.

Journey to Paris

At 8:30 am, we boarded a train to Paris. During this part of the journey, we found ourselves in a peculiar situation – despite having the ability to speak, we were voiceless. Neither could the French passengers understand English, nor could we communicate in French. The French tend to make little effort to learn English, perhaps because French is widely understood across Europe.

Using gestures and signs, we managed to navigate through the journey, reaching Paris by 2 pm.

Arrival in Paris

At the Paris railway station, Mr Khalid Sheldrake, who had been sent ahead to arrange accommodations, was present along with the imam of the Paris Mosque, and Mr Durand, a correspondent of the Havas Agency. The Havas Agency, much like Reuters, is a global news dissemination service.

Although Paris is home to numerous hotels, finding available accommodations is remarkably difficult. Despite having sent someone well-acquainted with the Paris situation several days in advance, it proved challenging for him to secure space for everyone in a single hotel. Ultimately, arrangements were made for lodging in four different hotels.

Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra], along with Maulana Dard[ra], Chaudhry Zafrulla Khan[ra], and the typist, stayed at the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, where the lodging cost was one pound per day. This hotel was more like a small town, accommodating up to 500 guests at a time. Huzoor’s[ra] room number was 449. Nearly as many staff members as guests were employed to manage the arrangements, and elevators were constantly in motion.

The rest of the entourage was lodged in various hotels on a narrow street called Rousseau. This street is named after Rousseau, a famous figure from before the French Revolution. The street was so narrow that even Al Hakam Street seemed wider in comparison.

Hafiz Sahib[ra], Sheikh Abdul Rahman Sahib, Khan Sahib[ra], and Chaudhry Ali Muhammad Sahib[ra] stayed in one hotel; Dr Sahib[ra] and I were in another; Bhai Ji[ra] and Reham Din Sahib[ra] stayed in a third; while Mian Sharif Ahmad Sahib[ra] and Chaudhry Muhammad Sharif Sahib resided in a fourth. These hotels provided lodging only, without dining facilities.

At Bhai Ji[ra] and Reham Din Sahib’s[ra] hotel, we initially arranged to cook our own meals. However, today (on 23 October 1924), due to the strict or temperamental nature of the hotel owner’s wife, cooking was forbidden.

Hence, until around 3 pm, we were busy finding accommodations.

Press coverage

At the train station, a press reporter was present to cover Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II’s[ra] arrival. Huzoor[ra] had given him an appointment for 3:30 pm. The reporter arrived on time, and the following conversation took place through a translator. Huzoor[ra] responded in English, and the translator conveyed his answers in French.

The reporter mentioned that he had received a cable from the Reuters agency, asking him to arrange coverage of Huzoor’s[ra] visit to

Paris.

Correspondent: How long will you stay here?

Huzoor[ra]: I will stay for six days.

Correspondent: What is the purpose of your journey?

Huzoor[ra]: I am travelling across Europe to observe the religious state of the people here firsthand, so I can devise a permanent plan for propagating Islam in these countries. My purpose is to raise the banner of peace in the world and explore what common grounds can unite the East and the West.

Correspondent: Do you plan to visit the mosque here, and will you allow people to meet you and exchange views?

Huzoor[ra]: Yes, I intend to visit the mosque. If people wish to discuss religious or political matters with me, I would welcome it. However, my primary interest lies in discussing religious issues, although I am ready to share my views on political topics as well.

Correspondent: Do you have plans to meet anyone in particular?

Huzoor[ra]: No definite plans have been made so far.

Correspondent: Tomorrow is Sunday. I don’t think much can be done.

Huzoor[ra]: We shall see; we have our work to do. Tomorrow, we may visit the mosque.

Correspondent: The mosque is closed on Sundays; no one can enter.

Huzoor[ra]: Is that so? The mosque remains closed on Sundays? That’s surprising.

Correspondent: Since it is still incomplete, that’s the current state of affairs.

Huzoor[ra]: I thought its construction was completed. In any case, we’ll see.

Correspondent: It will be completed by May. If you wish to see the mosque, it might be possible with permission from a Moroccan Muslim leader.

Huzoor[ra] did not respond to this remark. Mr Khalid Sheldrake said that the imam, Abdul Rahman, would make the arrangements himself.

The correspondent then left to enquire via telephone about the Moroccan Muslim leader, who was currently in Germany and was expected to return on Monday. Afterwards, the correspondent took leave.

Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] returned to his room and informed his companions that he would not be dining that night, so they could proceed with their meals.

Tabligh in Paris

On the morning of 26 October 1924, Huzoor[ra] instructed Maulvi Abdul Rahim Dard[ra] to convene a consultation meeting under the presidency of Hafiz Sahib[ra]. The objective was to discuss and finalise a programme of activities. The work was to be divided into two teams: one team would engage with journalists, writers on Eastern affairs, French political leaders, and foreign diplomats to propagate Islam Ahmadiyyat’s message. The second team would reach out to Muslims from different countries residing in Paris and convey the message of the Ahmadiyya Jamaat to them.

While the discussion was still underway, Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] himself arrived, providing clear guidance on the method of execution, after which lunch was served. Since offices, etc., were closed on Sunday, Huzoor[ra] decided to visit Versailles later in the afternoon. He instructed the companions to have lunch, offer prayers, and gather at the Grand Hôtel [de l’Univers]. In compliance with this directive, everyone prepared accordingly.

A brief mention of Versailles

It would not be inappropriate to provide a brief mention of Versailles. The city is globally renowned due to the Treaty of Versailles. However, instead of discussing the treaty’s political implications, this account focuses on the city itself. Located 18 miles from Paris, the French refer to it as Versailles.

The city served as the site of royal palaces for several generations of French monarchs. The grandeur and expansiveness of these palaces reflect the magnificence of their reigns. These palaces are now essentially museums, preserving the treasures and murals of French history. Sundays attract large crowds of visitors to this site.

Change in plans

By the time lunch and prayers were completed, it was 3 pm. Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] prepared to leave for Versailles. Initially, it was thought that the palaces were closed, but it was soon confirmed that they were open.

In the meantime, Huzoor[ra] met with the captain of a regiment belonging to the Prince of Wales. The captain, a friend of Mian Muhammad Shafi, had heard that the “Khilafat Delegation” had arrived in Paris. He approached Huzoor[ra] with the following query:

Captain: Are you a member of the “Khilafat Delegation”?

Huzoor[ra]: If you mean those who are affiliated with the Turkish Khilafat and have established Khilafat Committees, then no, we are not part of that group. However, if you are referring to those who believe in a form of Khilafat and are spiritually connected to it, then yes, we are followers of a spiritual Khalifa, and he is the true Khalifa of this era.

Captain: I am very pleased to hear that. This is fascinating. Who is the leader of this delegation?
 Huzoor[ra]This is not a delegation. By the grace of God, I am the Khalifa, and these are my staff members.

Captain: That’s even more interesting. Would you grant me an opportunity to have a discussion with you?

Huzoor[ra]: With great pleasure. Please coordinate with my secretary to fix a time.

The captain discussed the matter with Maulvi Abdul Rahim Dard[ra], and a meeting was scheduled for Monday at 4:30 pm. However, Huzoor[ra] decided to cancel his trip to Versailles and use that time for the discussion instead.

When the captain was informed that the meeting could take place immediately, his joy knew no bounds. Huzoor[ra] took him to a general meeting room, and their conversation lasted for two hours.

Discussion

Without a translator, Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] spoke fluently, as if conversing in his native Urdu. The captain asked numerous questions about the Ahmadiyya Jamaat, its unique characteristics, its influence on people, the excellence of Islamic teachings, polygamy, the reasons for divorce, and methods to avoid sin. Huzoor[ra] answered in depth, and the captain noted everything diligently.

At the end, the captain reviewed his notes, seeking corrections on certain points. Deeply impressed by the conversation, he departed with a positive impression. Hazrat Khalifatul Masih II[ra] gifted him Ahmadiyyat [or The True Islam]Ahmad, and The Teachings of Ahmad.

Afterwards, Huzoor[ra] remarked, “My heart was restless today because no significant work had been done. God, by His grace, sent this opportunity to us.”

Hafiz Sahib[ra] then suggested taking a short walk outside. Huzoor[ra] stepped out, walked around a marketplace, and returned using the same path.

Upon being informed that a single ticket was valid for travel on the underground railway, regardless of the distance, Huzoor[ra] decided to test this system. Tickets were purchased, and the group boarded the train to experience it.

Telegram from Venice

(The Review of Religions [Eng], November 1924)

Telegram dated 5 November 1924, from Hazrat Khalifatul Masih [IIra], Venice, to Maulvi Sher Ali Sahib, Qadian, Batala, India. (Communicated by Maulvi Abdur Rahim Dard MА ВТ, London)

“Hazrat instructed me at Venice to cable following – Dard:

“My health not good, but improving. Will leave Bombay God willing on 18 [November], (a subsequent cable from Port Said gives 19), by Baroda route staying night at Delhi, and starting from there by 17 Up. Don’t want to stay anywhere on the way. I will like to discuss with Mr Ghandi about India’s peace if he is at or near Bombay. So arrange for this also. Annual Jalsa should take place in December. My health requires long rest, which cannot be had until Jalsa is over.

“Last days in London were very successful. Interviews and discussions were more frequent. Representatives of various countries desired Ahmadi missionaries to visit their countries and promised all help. One Muslim country will welcome Ahmadiyya Mission and is in urgent need of it.

“Our Paris stay was very short, but successful. Representatives of big dailies came for interview. Paris Mosque Committee arranged official visit. Secretary with Engineers showed the building. The first prayer in the mosque was offered by us. Press Representatives and Cinema Companies took photos which were published in dailies.

“Sorry last mail letters could not be replied but I am praying for whole of community and am confident of God’s blessings. May He shower His blessings upon us all. Amen.”

Reuters sent the following cable from London on 24 October 1924:

“A considerable gathering of varied colours and races assembled this afternoon at the Waterloo Railway Station to bid farewell to the Khalifatul Masih, Head of the Ahmadiyya Community, who is bound for Southampton on his way back to India.

“In an interview, the Khalifatul Masih expressed the hope that the British Empire would be increasingly strengthened and would never be shaken and that he and his community would do their best to promote a spirit of unity and co-operation in the Empire with the world.”

Return to Qadian

(The Review of Religions [Eng], December 1924)

His Holiness, Hazrat Mirza Bashir-ud-Din Mahmud Ahmad, Khalifatul Masih II[ra], Head of the Ahmadiyya Community, landed at Bombay on 18 November 1924. He was received at the wharf by a large number of persons who had come to Bombay from all the different parts of India, Burma, and Ceylon. During his short stay at Bombay, His Holiness was interviewed by the representatives of all the important papers of the city which vied with each other in publishing long eulogistic notes about His Holiness and the Ahmadiyya Movement of which he is the present head.

His Holiness had also an interview with Mr Gandhi at Bombay and discussed with him the present political situation in India and the means of bringing about peace and unity in the country.

His Holiness arrived by special train at Batala on the night of 23 [November 1924] and reached Qadian on the morning of the next day. At Qadian, His Holiness was received by over two thousand persons of different creeds and races who joined in according him a most enthusiastic reception.

The Ahmadiyya Press Association sent the following press telegram to the Indian and the London press concerning the return of His Holiness and party to India:

“His Holiness, Hazrat Mirza Bashir-ud-Din Mahmud Ahmad, Khalifatul Masih, Head of the Ahmadiyya Community, landed at Bombay on 18 [November 1924] and was accorded a hearty welcome by over two hundred representatives who had come there from different parts of India, Burma and Ceylon. While still at the port, Doctor Sadiq of Qadian presented on behalf of the Ahmadiyya Community in India an address of welcome to His Holiness who replied in suitable words and thanked the British people and press who had received him so well in London. Before leaving the wharf, His Holiness with his party was photographed by different press photographers and during his short stay in Bombay, representatives of all the important dailies of the city came to interview His Holiness concerning his European tour.

“At Bombay, His Holiness had also an interview with Mr Gandhi and had a talk with him about the present situation in India. His Holiness laid special stress on the fact that unless the Indian National Congress were made open to the holders of all the different views it could not be truly called a national body which it can become only when it represents all shades of opinion held in India. Moderates and extremists, co-operators and non-co-operators must equally have a voice in the Congress and whichever party happens to predominate must be allowed to formulate and lead the policy of the house so long as it continues to be in power. Under present circumstances, the Congress, though named a national body only represented a particular class of people and therefore it had no real force in the country. Mr Gandhi expressed his concurrence with these views and urged His Holiness to also join the Congress. His Holiness replied that he, being an out-and-out cooperator and an advocate of constitutional and evolutional progress, could not join the Congress under the present circumstances but would willingly do so when he found that he could enter the Congress without being faithless to his religion and conscience.

“On his way to the Punjab, His Holiness was accorded a hearty welcome by a large number of people at the railway stations of Agra, Delhi, Ludhiana and Jullundur. His Holiness and his twelve secretaries reached Amritsar by special train on 23 [November 1924] where over a thousand Ahmadis had assembled to receive and present an address of welcome to him at the railway station. On the morning of 24, His Holiness arrived at Qadian, the Headquarters of the Movement, and was accorded a most hearty and enthusiastic reception by over two thousand people of different castes and creeds, and His Holiness is now busy in receiving addresses of welcome and responding to invitations to dinners which are being arranged in his honour by different bodies. The whole Ahmadiyya Community is thankful to the London press and people for their kind reception of their leader.”

(Translated by Al Hakam from the original Urdu, published in the 29 November 1924 issue of Al Fazl, and transcribed from the original English, published in the November & December 1924 issue of The Review of Religions)

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